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Different types of seams to use for best sewing

January 27, 2025 by Alice

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Types of seams that can be sewn on sewing machine.

When I first started sewing, I remember the time when I desired to sew myself a summer linen dress. And, I wanted it to be finish of with fancy seam instead of serged seam, for that luxurious and rich clean finish. My mind was set for a certain type of seam but, I wasn’t sure if it was the right kind for choice for my piece of fabric. 

I investigated the different types of seams. 

Looking back, I wish I’d just focused on getting it done with the seam that I first decided on sewing. And learn about all other various types of seams later on. Still, it was very informative sewing lesson.

That’s how I gained understanding that there are many different names for sewing seams. Some names are different, yet are done with similar sewing technique. 

Seams can be sewn by sewing machine or stitched by hand. So, how to decide which seam type is best to use for sewing project? Garment construction details are very important i this process.

Creating a seam is a sewing process of joining together seam allowance edges of fabric pieces with a certain type of stitch and stitch line. 

A stitch length can be adjusted based on the types of the fabric and the final sewing projects purposes and uses. 

Here are the different seams;

  • French Seam 
  • Basic Plain Seam
  • lapped seam
  • flat-felled seams
  • welt seam
  • flat seam
  • straight seams
  • decorative seam for decorative purposes
  • bias bound seam
  • double-stitched seam 
  • overlocked seam

These types of seams are used for divers applications.

1. French Seam

Is a technique used to join seam with raw fabric edges enclosed seam, often used with lightweight fabrics, and sheer fabric for professional and luxury clothing.

2. Plain Seam

A basic plain seam involves joining layers of fabric together

3. Lapped Seam

Overlapping two pieces of fabric together) often used with leather, and felt, and any other fabrics that don’t fray

4. Flat Felled Seam

This type of seam is often used with heavier fabrics like for example in making denim jeans

5. Welt Seam

This kind of seam is a strong seam, it is similar to the flat-fell seam but it isn’t as bulky due to having the raw fabric edges exposed and not enclosed

6. Flat seam

Related to the flat-felled seam but it can be finished with flat stitch or slip stitched on the wrong sides

7. Straight Seam

same as plain seam

8. Decorative seam

Also called Expressive seams; it is a combination of cover and visible seam. Even a zig-zag stitch can be used to join two separate side seam into one seam

9. Bias Bound Seam

This technique is used to prevent fabric from fraying and creates clean finish. A bias tape is used to enclosed the raw edge of the fabric of the garment’s seam allowance) 

10. Double Stitched Seam

In different words it’s a double top-stitched seam. As you can see, it’s similar to a plain seam but double rows of stitches are sewn, on the right side of the fabric. 

11. Overlocked Seam

You need a serger or overlock machine for this method – raw edges of the fabric are cut and stitch together to create nicely finish seam and prevent the fabric edges from frying. Sometimes this technique is used on unlined jackets)

Different seam finishes call for variety of stitch type.

Just to name few;

  • zig zag stitch
  • straight stitches 
  • running stitch
  • top stitch
  • chain stitch
  • blanket stitch
  • decorative stitches
  • overlocked stitch

Happy Sewing!

Filed Under: Fix Clothes

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