One of my favorite skills that I learned as a young girl is to know how to hand sew buttonhole. These button holes are beautiful, especially when carefully done. That said, I’m giving you a heads up that you’ll have to practice to perfect this process. Read over my blog post to get an idea of hand-worked buttonhole and what produces better results.
Remember: the first time you try how to hand sew buttonhole, it can look messy, but no worries, there is no easy ways or shortcuts to create perfect buttonholes. Patience and practice are best friends of success!
What about Correct Stitch
I’d like to point out here, that the handmade buttonholes must be done with the correct stitch. This stitch is similar to the blanket stitch, that is used to decorate the blanket’s raw edge of the fabric, but it’s NOT the same. Below is a detailed explanation, how to make the buttonhole stitch. It’s a good idea to practise first with scrap fabric to get the stitch right.
Is Thick Thread Better
Furthermore, to choose the right buttonhole thread, I’d like you to think about the thickness of the thread and the material that is made of, before you start sewing buttonholes. Generally buttonholes are sewn with all kinds of thread, there is to right and wrong. Depends on your sewing project. If you want to make beautiful buttonholes, let’s say in a suit coat, the thread should be thicker and better quality than regular sewing thread, for example an embroidery thread is a good choice. Thick fabrics look better with buttonhole made with thicker thread. The cotton thread, like the Perl Cotton Yarn works well for thicker fabrics, as it is treated under tension.
On the other hand, it is recommended to use 100% SILK thread for fine and lightweight material, as after hand sewing the buttonhole, the edge looks polished and neatly done.
How Hard is it to Hand Sew a Buttonhole?
Buttonhole Options
- horizontal buttonholes
- vertical buttonhole
Both are equally important. You’ll use these according to sewing projects you’re working on. Again, same as with the type of thread, here is no right or wrong on the option you can go with. It is all about its functionality and your preference.
For example, pants work well with horizontally placed buttonhole. While button-down shirt works better with vertically placed buttonholes. On the other hand dresses work well with both buttonhole options. It’s up to you guys to decide how you want to position them.
Most Common Handmade Types of Buttonholes
- keyhole buttonhole
- fabric loop buttonhole
- faced buttonhole
STEPS to Mark Hand Sew Buttonhole Stitch
- have your finished sewing project at hand
- measure the actual diameter of the button to determine the length of the buttonhole AND add 1/8″ extra. General rule is to measure the thickness of the button as well, and for the thicker buttons, add the depth of the button to the future buttonhole opening
- if sewing more then one button on, arrange them on the fabric to make corresponding buttonhole
- mark the spot
- mark the length of the buttonhole making sure the spot mark is in the middle, this should look like the capital letter I
STEPS to Cut the Buttonhole
- first step is to outline your stitch
- equally important is to run straight line of small running stitch around the future buttonhole opening / a good idea is to use different color of thread for contrast
- place one pin on each end of the buttonhole / this is to prevent you from cutting the opening too much
- and then, cut the button hole opening with seam ripper or sharp scissors
- after cutting the slit be careful not to disturb the raw edges
Now, that you have your buttonhole nicely marked and outlined, finally, it is time to start sewing the stitch
So, how to make the buttonhole by hand?
STEPS to Sew Buttonhole by hand
First thing is to thread your needle
Next step is to knot the end of the thread.
After you have your thread and the needle ready, start sewing first side of the button hole on the wrong site of the fabric, feed the point of the needle through the slit opening and hide the knot in at the top or near right corner on the wrong side. At the same time this step will secure the stitch in place.
Now, continue with the needle and insert it into the cut slit, on the right side of the fabric, going under back of the fabric.
Poke the needle back to the right side of the buttonhole at the top edge near the mark.
As you poke the tip of the needle out crate a loop around the needle to create the buttonhole stitch.
Again, continue with this stitching all around the edges of the buttonhole.
Pay special attention to the ends of the buttonhole and make sure they are finish nicely.
Lastly, as you are working thread along, the last stitch should be secure with small strong knot on the left side of the fabric before you can cut it off.
Consequently, once you learn how to hand sew buttonhole, you will be very proud of yourself .
I personally love to see handmade buttonholes. Makes the finished project look very pretty. In my opinion hand-sewn buttonholes look beautiful and neat.